In the morning, we dry all the affairs, then we go to 9:00, the sky is clear, one last look at Island Peak... We reach the path going up the Khumbu. I recrosses then know landscapes, especially the metal bridge on which I made a panorama on my first visit to this wonderfull country... Along the way we vross wild chamois, looking for and eating potatoes in a field ! ...
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Some efforts later, here I am at 6189m, the summit of Island Peak. I take this opportunity to go out again with all my camera gear (over 5kg: Two boxes, 3 goals, memory cards, batteries, tripod, pan head, and a bag to put everything), I door since the beginning of the stay in order to achieve this panorama cloudy... The view is a little bite, there are some clouds... However, we can clearly see the Lhotse in front of us, at 8516m altitude, near Mount Everest! For the descent, we will use an 8 with fixed ropes, to be faster at the bottom, because it's really bad! We go through the High Camp, then the Base Camp and then we continue our descent to descend low enough in the evening... at the altitude of Mont Blanc! We arrived at about 15:45 Chhunkhung, it's been almost eleven o'clock walk, 600m of vertical to positive, negative and 1450m. We have slept nine nights at an altitude higher than Mont Blanc!...
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We here at the top of the wall of 200m. We see the top it is right there at your fingertips... There is still one last jump of 60m, was also equipped with fixed ropes. These meters are quite challenging, but with the excitement of reaching the top, we find hidden forces! However, although there is a fixed rope, it has no room for error here, because there are two vertical walls on either side of the ridge... ...
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Around 6:30, we arrive at the foot of Island Peak. It is only 200m to assemble, arm strength, with ascenders. It is a kind of near vertical ice awaits us: we must cling with their feet, use the ax to stand, and on the other hand, the ascenders attached to a fixed rope. But it's getting bad, the snow is part of the... ...
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Clock to 2:30, it was hot that night in the tent: -8 ° C! (compared to nights in the valley of Hunku). We leave at 3:30 to the front. It starts with a climb in the rocks, we kept the 'small walking shoes'. We climb to the big cairn, and to 6:00, we arrive at the foot of the glacier. We then slippers 'big shoes' and crampons, harness, gaiters... We roped to walk on the glacier between the cracks....
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The ascent is very steep, the pace is very slow. We arrive at High Camp, at 5450m around 12:30. Then we eat yak cheese, and a kind of fried pancake with red beans. For dessert, I took a cake with honey... Small pleasures are rare in remote parts... Then we go to the tents to prepare our bags for the night. Meanwhile, two carriers will collect water with wicker baskets... they come with baskets filled with ice!...
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Last night I ate nothing, and yet, the fried rice and potato gratin looked delicious! Unless they had the taste of kerosene, as if they were wrong cooking water! We later learned that they stored the can of kerosene in the bowl during transport, hence the bizarre tastes... The alarm clock is to 7:00, and we dry the wet affairs, before leaving for the 9:30 High Camp of Island Peak. 1:00 we pass during the valley floor, without too uneven. At Base Camp, we are only passing through, and just before the abrupt rise, I realize this shooting....
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The day after the climb, we rest (and some Sherpas, the others will go shopping in the valley). We make socks for washing, taking advantage of the sun to make a phone wipes, and take some pictures. The machine freezes if left outside, it must fairly cool, even during the day, against the attempts by sunlight, the temperature rises to 30C. It's nice! During lunch, two avalanches are triggered in front of us, on the other side. I do not have time to take my camera, but it's a pretty sight! That's when I learned yesterday, in return, I was caught in the cloud of an avalanche in the same place. I thought when I was there it began to snow, like every night... Thile then shows me a photo he had time to take, and he's right... I just thought being in a cloud of snow! Snow on the ground seemed to me very fine, but I had not listened more than that, too busy not to lose sight of the wearer tents!...
Read the full story. Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 08 April 2011.
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In France, we call this day 'race and crossing edge'... It is difficult to cross a mountain pass, and today, nobody got hurt! Thile is relieved when everyone arrives at the camp, and at night we used a kind of rum! However, at 4900m, the head turns quickly because we are almost fasting since the night before (express breakfast in the morning, midday snack and neck)....
Read the full story. Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 07 April 2011.
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I am a little break on the north side of the neck, after crossing the main difficulties. During the descent, we will fall behind, because a holder has lost its charge: our tents! Fortunately, they will go to get them more... We are at the foot of the pass at 5200m around 16:00, and we must join the camp at 4900m. I would be there around 18:00, the other 1:00 later!...
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We take a short break at the neck, before beginning the descent ultra stiff. Carriers are already on the way down for a while. The steep sections (vertical) are insured reminder, stiff with a fixed rope, and less steep with... nothing! The descent will last 4 to 5 hours depending on the person....
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Once crossed the steep passages, there is a long climb to the pass. I take a break to double everyone, and realize this view of the accomplishments. The breath is short and quick to 5780m above sea level!...
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We again paused, waiting for all the hardware and the Sherpas pass over this new tricky. This is the last tricky requiring the installation of a fixed rope....
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We are in awe of the work and energy carriers, to haul all the equipment, and climbing. What agility! Thile is the first to climb with crampons and ice ax. He then secures a rope, that everyone uses thereafter. The crossing of the pass is a succession of steep passages like this....
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We quickly from high on the side of the pass, and to 5600m we reach the foot of the glacier. The maneuvers will be long because it takes up all apparatus (50Kg each), then the holders, and finally our group....
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First break, especially the time to treat a Sherpa, who had a horrible stomach ache! Half a stamp will suffice, because it does not usually heal, and this half is immediately stamped its effect!...
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Early wake up to 5:30, for a long day ahead. We take breakfast in the tents, and everything must be folded and stored for 7:00. That night he was -13 ° C in our tent, and after Thile, -23 ° C in the Mess tent! I'm enjoying the nice weather to this scenario, a few dozen meters from our camp....
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The trail is pretty bad on this part, firstly because we had big shoes, and secondly we were walking on large rocks, as Roche Gap to Estenc (for connoisseurs). We arrived at the foot of the pass Amphu The Laptse at 5430m altitude, the valley floor. To get to the other side, there is no alternative but to cross the pass, or any down, to pass through Lukla, and all around (10-12 days of walking). I'm beginning to be well acclimatized, because got there, I still have the form to help the Sherpas to install all the tents! Tonight, it's so cold that we eat in the tents... ...
Read the full story. Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 06 April 2011.
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That night in tents was very cold: it was between -13 ° C to -15 ° C. During the night, I used two water bottles (water bottles filled with hot water), one for me and one for the camera gear, batteries do not like the cold! The water in the kettle in my sleeping bag was still liquid in the morning, while the camera was a big ice cube!...
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Before leaving early in the morning, I asked our guide to get all the sherpas to carry out this panorama. Back in France, I did develop the brand in 13 copies, I sent the guide in Nepal... hoping it will be able to give each carrier a picture... It's so cold that night that my pan head froze! There I had the can near my body, under the jacket, so that it loosens... ...
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We arrive late in the day in our camp, I want to take some pictures of ice sculptures. Around 16:30, we arrived at a barn where a couple lives of Nepalis, sandals on his feet! They have three stoves: two kerosene, and wood, except that there is no wood in the region, and it is forbidden to pick up. So, there is the rare wood in the barn comes from the other valley, at 3-4 days of walking! The previous night, we got so cold in the barn that night, we prefer to sleep in tents....
Read the full story. Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 05 April 2011.
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I take a lunch break to make this panorama along the river. Like every day, the clouds begin to arrive around noon... and we will finish the day in the snow!...
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Once the corridor steep completed, holders sit on the edge of a large frozen lake, with a magnificent view over the valley. Everyone enjoys the sun for warmth, for night was cool, he made up to -8 ° C at night in the barn!...
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The descent of the High Camp is painful, not only because the bad weather returns (we did well not to attempt the summit), but in addition the trace has disappeared, with the snow the day before: you can not see the cracks, and the Sherpas are not sufficiently well equipped in that dusty! This panorama was taken the next morning, in a steep canyon and snowy! However, carriers prefer to move to shorter: we have had the opportunity to tour this small rocky outcrop, 1:30 to walk more... ...
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Mera Peak: The night was very bad, we were caught in a snowstorm, with a temperature in the tent between -7 ° C and -8 ° C. The North Face VE25 tent Sherpa was destroyed during the night... In the morning, we wake up then with 40-50cm of snow. It's unfortunate for the summit of Mera Peak, but starting from an altitude of 5700m, we will need at least 2 days to get there: 1 day to do much of the trace, and the second day to return. Knowing that the sherpas have a tent in less, it is not possible to attempt the summit! It's too bad, so close, having to give up because of the material... So we leave to the valley of Hunku, toward the pass of Amphu Laptse La. .....
Read the full story. Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 04 April 2011.
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The sun is out this morning, we leave for a big day. Indeed, it is not possible to eat on the journey for the whole team, so we eat once arrived at High Camp. The pace is quite slow, because we have more than 1000m of elevation changes to make, and we start from the height of Mont Blanc! The climb becomes unpleasant, from the time when there is wind, snow, and fog: we have some more visual cues. We finally arrived around 15:00 at High Camp is a small platform, wedged between the seracs and a cliff! The tents are raised on small platforms at 5700m altitude....
Read the full story. Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 03 April 2011.
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Acclimatization day at Khare: it's cold enough, my flask will freeze the time of this little walk (40 min)! Once back at camp, we make some manipulations of rope, full sun, then we 'wash', and put on clean clothes, because in the next 2 days, it will be no question of changing!...
Read the full story. Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 02 April 2011.
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The night was cool, the temp has dropped to -5 ° C in the tent! This is the first time I close the sleeping bag, and I do not use it as a cover... I will walk up prayer flags at 5050m, then I go to have breakfast with my companions. Subsequently, we will have a demonstration on the use of hyperbaric chambers, tested with the altimeter of the watch... ...
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We went under a big sun at 7:00, but the fog comes very quickly. We make a short break to drink and eat some cereal bars. A huge fog invades us, and we will join Karre (4805m) in the clouds!...
Read the full story. Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 01 April 2011.
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The night was cool, it was between 0 ° C and 1 ° C in the tent. This morning it is very beautiful, but the clouds soon rise from the valley. We will end the day in thick fog... ...
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The sky is clear this morning, and we leave the village of Kote. Basically, we see for the first time on Mera Peak. We establish the formalities for entering the park in the village of Kote at 3555m altitude. The valley floor is quite nice, the altitude is progressing very slowly....
Read the full story. Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 31 March 2011.
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The night was cool, my shoes were frozen in the lodge! In the morning, the sky is clear and it is very beautiful. We cross two passes at altitude, in corridors steep: we are in awe of the carriers, equipped with a simple pair of shoes, and their heavy burden!...
Read the full story. Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 30 March 2011.
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In the late afternoon, the Sherpas were given appointments in the smoky lodge where tea is served. The climb up to 4605m is pretty tough, because on the one hand two days ago, we were on dry land, and partly because it must be: it's not like in the Alps, where the evening, we return to the valley! Here is here to stay: 15 days we will be above the 4000m!...
Read the full story. Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 29 March 2011.
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The lunch break is made early, around 10:45, because then there is the possibility to stop to prepare meals for everyone... The cooks are exploits to 4065m above sea level!...
Read the full story. Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 29 March 2011.
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Upon awakening, after snowing all night, the weather is clear. On the one hand the Khumbu valley, on the other the rise we wait... We will climb to over 4600m this day, hard drive while we were still in 2800 24 before!...
Read the full story. Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 29 March 2011.
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We started the morning of Lukla in the rain... and it will leave us gradually turn into snow... We decide to spend the night in a smoky lodge, and we sleep on straw, with the inhabitants. This is a relative comfort, but much better than the tents... ...
Read the full story. Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 28 March 2011.
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Before leaving the valley adjacent to the Khumbu, we baladons in the village of Lukla, to make an offering in this temple....
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Camping near the airstrip at Lukla: what a sight to see the planes land on the banked track!...
Read the full story. Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 27 March 2011.
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Kala Patthar is in fact a shoulder of Pumori(7161m). The climb is tiring, especially because of thin air. This summit is widely enjoyed for it is mainly snow-free and this peak offers a particularly charming view on Mount Everest. All around ice cathedrals throw their spires towards the sky: Pumori (7161m) and Mount Everest (8848m) but also Lhotse (8516m), Nuptse (7861m), Cho Oyu (8201m), Changtse (7543m). At east, you can catch a glimpse of Makalu (8463m). In the south, you can admire Ama Dablam (6856m), Thamserku (6620m) and Kangtega (6685m). Below, Khumbu Icefall seracs and the base camp complete this gigantic panorama.
Panorama made of 3 x 15 photos taken on the 12 April 2009.
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2 cricket teams, called Tensing and Hillary ( as a tribute to the 2 men who reached the summit for the first time in 1953) played at 5165m above the sea level in order to collect nearly 400 000 euros for a charity. Richard Kirtley conceived the idea of such a match when he realised that Gorak Shep plateau looked strangely like ?The Oval? in London.
Panorama made of 3 x 11 photos taken on the 12 April 2009.
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It is 4 o'clock in the morning. We leave with frontal lamps and a temperature 5c degrees below zero! How incredible the light is at that altitude. The lamps are soon useless. The sunrise takes place behind us slowly throwing light on the highest snow-capped summits. As soon as a sunbeam touches us, it warms us. Little by little we take off gloves, caps and sweatshirts. The climb is steady and slow along the moraine of Khumbu glacier. The tons of stones carried by the glacier make a mineral strip that we climb up. Cairns (handmade piles of stones to prepare the ground) are made with these stones.
Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 12 April 2009.
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This summit is not particularly technical, the slope is steady but important. Some parts can include cracked soil so you may have to use ropes. The ridge towards the summit is narrow. If the access starts with moraines and rocks, most of the way goes through snow. After this base camp, the climbers only have at their disposal one more camp at 5500m before the ascent of the summit at 6119m.
Panorama made of 3 x 11 photos taken on the 13 April 2009.
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The 350-meter-climb through rocks and the frontal moraine of Khumbu glacier is quite hard. The snow leopard is said to live here. However don?t expect to see one, this track is far too busy for such a wary animal! At the top of the climb, about 20 funeral monuments are lined up to pay tribute to the courage of the Sherpa guides who died on Mount Everest...
Panorama made of 3 x 13 photos taken on the 11 April 2009.
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A great part of the equipment for the expedition is carried by yaks, yet our bags are carried by porters. Indeed yaks are far too expensive for a small trek like ours. It is less expensive for the agency to hire porters. They are rather slim and short and stack up the belongings of 2 trekkers plus their own in a ?doko?, a sort of basket made of bamboo and filled to the top. Once the bags are fixed with strings, they squat and with the help of the ?namlo?(the frontal headband) they lift their load and inch forward. Their load shouldn?t exceed 30 kg but nobody checked the weight of our bags at any moment! We took care at home, before the departure, not to exceed 13kg of equipment each. But for a few extra coins, some porters carry much more.
Panorama made of 3 x 11 photos taken on the 11 April 2009.
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Little by little the vegetation becomes scarce and the landscape is drier and less pleasant. Big and hairy yaks graze in the meadows. Pheriche is a village made of lodges and rustic old houses set on either side of the path. This village is also known for its clinic ?The Himalayan Rescue Association? where are treated climbers and trekkers who suffer from acute mountain sickness or any other ailment. It is really freezing in this village , with a sharp wind blowing all the time!
Panorama made of 3 x 11 photos taken on the 11 April 2009.
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The Himalaya is gigantic and impressive but that doesn?t mean it isn?t vulnerable. Relatively young, this range continues to gain a few millimetres every year, with the Indian plate making progress under the Asian plate. Moreover, the growth of the population, the overexploitation of the natural resources by the local population and the war have devastating effects on the soil, the forest, the fauna and the bio-diversity of the massif. Here is some advice to trekkers who want to be as eco-friendly as possible: Bring some micropure pills which clean the water instead of drinking bottled water ( the bottles are carried by men and burnt afterwards), and for those who camp, bring gas instead of cutting the very few trees to make campfires!
Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 10 April 2009.
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Himalayan populations are highly religious. The cohabitation of the 2 great religions which are Hinduism and Buddhism is a perfect example of religious tolerance. Everywhere acts of devotion are part of the daily life of the inhabitants. The towns are filled with temples, sanctuaries and votive altars. Buddhist landscapes are strewed with prayer flags, prayer wheels and many walls which are used to pass on the prayers written on them to gods. As for chartens, they protect villages and passes from evil spirits. Religious fervour is no doubt one of the most typical cultural features of Himalayan societies.
Panorama made of 3 x 11 photos taken on the 13 April 2009.
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Along the paths, native people and trekkers from all over the world pass and welcome each other with a smile and a ?Namasté?. Every one knows Namasté means ?Good day? but just a few know the true meaning of this word ?Let all your qualities lift you upwards?. If this bridge is rigid with a metallic structure, others seem to belong to an Indiana Jones movie: A footbridge more than 100 meters long creaks and sways when crossed! Better not be in front of a herd of yaks when crossing such a bridge!
Panorama made of 3 x 11 photos taken on the 10 April 2009.
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In Tengboche, the view on the snow-capped summits is splendid. Ama Dablam (6856m) towers the landscape, we can also admire Taboche (6376m), Lhotse (8516m), Kangtega (6685m), Thamserku (6608m), and Mount Everest (8868m)
Panorama made of 3 x 11 photos taken on the 10 April 2009.
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Nepal is a crossroads of different civilisations, at the junction of 2 huge cultural zones: Hindu India and Buddhist Tibet. A prayer wheel is a cultural object used by Tibetans practising Buddhism. The traditional prayer wheel is made of a cylinder filled with mantras and free to turn around an axle. The wheels are set in motion one after the other by the believer who walks in front of them (the same spiritual value as the prayer). The believer sets the wheels with his right hand. The wheel must turn clockwise so that the mantra is read in the way it was written.
Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 09 April 2009.
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Around the temple all the animals and birds are protected and their habitats as well!. In fact Buddhists think all creatures are fellow-creatures, having the same cycle of life and death. By easing the life of the animals living in the surroundings the monks gain advantages for a better future life. Every one is a winner: the conifer, the pheasant and even the Yeti!
Panorama made of 3 x 11 photos taken on the 09 April 2009.
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It is a major place of Buddhism. In the past, the place was empty and favourable to meditation. Today, numerous lodges, a police-station and a phone-center surround the gompa. Situated on the road to the valley of Mount Everest it attracts a lot of tourists. It shelters about 50 lamas and novices. The monastery was builtin1923 on Lama Shanga Darjee?s initiative. An earthquake destroyed it in 1934 and a fire burnt it down in 1989. It was rebuilt bigger and more magnificent and it goes on getting bigger year after year!
Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 09 April 2009.
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Lodges are very simple mountain refuges in local people?s homes including meals and two-bedded bedrooms. Treks with accommodation in lodges are very friendly as they allow to discover the Nepalese way of life and to meet other trekkers. Dinner and breakfast are taken in a common room heated with a wood-stove. This room is also used for the exchange of Sherpas. Bedrooms are not heated and very poorly isolated. (How chilly are the nights with the temperature going below 0 C almost every night in April!) Facilities: A simple wash-basin, often situated outside, is enough to brush your teeth. And you will have to make do with a basin full of hot water instead of a daily shower! And better not feel like going to the toilets in the middle of the night, since they are often situated in another building!
Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 09 April 2009.
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Khumjung is a more authentic village than NB. There are fewer shops. Thanks to the institution run by Sir Edmund Hillary, a school has been built. With the education given, many Nepalese children can become guides or have access to interesting jobs in Katmandou. Hillary devoted a lot of his time to his actions and Nepalese people still benefit from them.
Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 14 April 2009.
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This monastery dates back to the 16th century. As in all Buddhist monasteries Buddha?s 216 sacred texts are shown on either side of the altar. The first 108 texts are Kyengur: sacred texts written in Sanskrit and translated in Tibetan. The other 108 texts are Tyengur; modified versions of the former in which there are more explanations. In the center of the monastery there is Guru Rinpoche with, on his right, Bodhisatva Avalokiteshvara.
Panorama made of 3 x 11 photos taken on the 14 April 2009.
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Yeti? But what are you talking about? Of course there is no tangible proof that it exists but Sherpa people do believe in its existence. No genetic research has been done on this scalp. Many have tried to see these creatures but with very little success! The Yeti is said to be about 3-meter-high, with a cone-shaped skull, pointed ears, a human face and a human shape.
Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 14 April 2009.
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It is with extreme kindness that Sherpas and Buddhist monks welcome visitors. It is hard not to be enthralled by their strength, loyalty and good spirits. Sherpas are farmers, breeders, traders and since the 1950?s porters, mountain guides, trek agents and innkeepers. Sherpa people are associated with the history of Mount Everest.
Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 08 April 2009.
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Called the ?Capital of Sherpas?, Namche is at 2 days?walk to Lukla (There is no road suitable for vehicles going to Namcha).Nearly all the treks in the Khumbu region go through Namche Bazar, the gate to the high Himalaya. In this village, the landscape on summits higher than 8000m is breathtaking (Mt Everest, Lhoste, Ama Dablam). It is highly recommended to spend 1 or 2 nights in N to get used to the altitude and to avoid Acute Mountain Sickness.
Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 08 April 2009.
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The national park of Sagarmatha is situated in the east part of Nepal, with the Himalaya and half south Mount Everest. The park was open on July 19, 1976 and was listed as a World Heritage Site in 1979.Sagarmatha is a Sanskrit word made of Sagar (heaven) and of Matha (head), and it is the Nepalese name of Mount Everest. When you enter the park, Nepalese rangers control your trekking permit (they check the entrance fees) and on the way out, you must have your permit stamped (the wardens check no trekker got lost in the mountain and is missing).
Panorama made of 3 x 13 photos taken on the 08 April 2009.
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Lukla?s airfield was built in the 60?s by Sir Edmund Hillary (the first man who ever climbed Mount Everest in 1953 with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay). At the beginning, there was just enough space for one plane to fly from and to Katmandou. Now, there is capacity for up to 4 Darnier 228. The runway, 527-meter-long, is surrounded on one side by the mountain, and on the other side by a dizzy slope (12% incline) into the void. The pilot flies only visually, so very good weather conditions are necessary to carry out this flight which lasts 25 minutes. In case of bad weather conditions, one day?s drive in a four-wheel-drive vehicle and two days?walk are needed to travel the same distance! Lukla is THE place to go for the tourists visiting the Himalaya and the surrounding valleys at the beginning and at the end of their trek.
Panorama made of 3 x 11 photos taken on the 15 April 2009.
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The stupa of Boudhanath. It is the largest stupa in Nepal, with its 38m high and 100m in circumference...
Panorama made of 3 x 12 photos taken on the 16 April 2009.
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Magnificent stupa of Swayambhunath, Kathmandu, Nepal
Panorama made of 3 x 10 photos taken on the 16 April 2009.
Click on the image to view the 360º panorama !